Ten Ten

The mountains shall bring peace to the people... Psalm 72:3

To check our training progress, Becky and I decided to spend a weekend backpacking.  Although we had hiked two consecutive days on a previous trip, the mileage was rather small.  We wanted to up the ante to ten miles each day.  Remember, we are planning on a 100-mile section hike next summer and will have to cover 15-20 miles per day.

On a normal backpacking trip all I would have is my loaded backpack.  This was what I call a hybrid trip; it was a combination of backpacking and car camping.  We had reservations to stay at Hungry Mother State Park, but would be carrying full packs while hiking.  This allowed us a few more creature comforts like a bath-house, my full-size pillow from home, and an extra sleeping bag.  I loaded my pack and some firewood into the car then headed to Becky's.  She added her gear and two camp chairs.

Upon arriving at our destination, we hiked a four-mile loop immediately followed by a six-mile loop.   After finishing ten miles in four hours, we thought we had earned ourselves a cup of coffee.  I had placed my mittens and hiking poles on and against the bumper of my car.  After I put my pack in the vehicle, I got into the driver's seat, buckled up and headed to town for a coffee I had been craving all...day...long.  Driving back toward our "home for the night" I saw my mittens in the road and instantly knew what I had done.  I said, "Becky, there are my mittens."  I pulled into a parking area so she could jump out to retrieve my mits.  They are hand knitted and felted by yours truly, so, I wanted to keep them.  We then crossed the highway to retrieve my poles.  Thankfully, I had not ruined them.  That was my "brain fart" moment of the trip.

Molly's Knob as seen from Clyburn Ridge

We pitched our tent, rolled out sleeping pads and bags, then turned our attention to a camp-fire.

home for the night

Because we were unsuccessful with starting a fire on our first overnight trip, we were determined to have one this night.  I brought proper kindling and dry wood.  Becky brought "Meacham Matches", otherwise known as a blow torch.  My sweet husband and son brought extra wood and coffee to us shortly after we set up camp.

we conquered fire

In the morning, I started the fire again.  We prepared and ate breakfast, read our Bibles, attended to hygiene, then tore down camp.  The scripture quoted at the beginning of this post was in my daily reading.  I thought it was timely, appropriate, and very much describes what hiking does for me.

I suggested we hike the upper half of the Lake Trail, cross the highway to  Clyburn Ridge, then finish the remainder of the Lake Trail back to where we would leave the car.  After Becky agreed, we drove to Molly's Knob parking area.  As usual for me, I had to stop within the first hour to eat.  Over the last few years, I have learned to listen to my body when it tells me to refuel.  I ate two handfuls of dates, prunes, cranberries, and almonds.  Not done yet.  I then ate a peanut butter and nutella sandwich round.

Around mile four, my right abductor started to really tighten up.  This progressed throughout the remainder of the day, but as long as I remained in motion the pain was minimal.  Conversely, after stopping for a minute, the first few steps were more painful.  Becky's foot started giving her trouble, too.  We persevered and finished all ten miles in four and a half hours.  While we were a tad slower on the second day, we did hike twenty miles in two days.  I'll take that. 

I had a couple of giggle moments on this trip.  When I unzipped my second sleeping bag, a pair of socks fell out.  I have a habit of taking my socks off in my sleep.  Apparently I had done that when I camped a few weeks ago and didn't realize or remember the socks were still there.

Another time I laughed out loud at myself was just before we started out for the second-day hike.  I had put my pack on and wanted to pocket some tissues for the hike.  With cooler temps and winds, I have to wipe my nose more often. (Gross, I know.  Sorry.)  After opening the car door, I reached in for the box of tissues only to be stopped just short of reaching them.  My pack had caught on the upper door frame and I was stuck.  I thought, "This must be a sight."  

a section of  Lake Trail

It was another great trip.  These prep hikes are serving their purposes.  I'm getting stronger and more fit, as well as learning what needs to be tweaked.

What do you like about hiking?

"I'm formed for the wilderness, if ye love me, let me go where my soul craves to be agin"  ~Natty Bumppo, The Pioneers by James Fenimore Cooper


I have been asked by one of my sisters and my son, at different times, the title question.  Much like Gretchen Wilson trying to answer the question put before her, "What is a redneck?", I find that the answer cannot be reduced to one sentence.  Gretchen's response took an entire book.  Not to worry, I intend for my attempt at an explanation to be shorter.

I'm not even sure I can put my reason(s) into words.  Everything about the woods, all nature, really, brings me peace.  The senses are heightened.  I can smell leaves, fresh air, bear musk, and flowers.  I can hear owls hooting to one another, chipmunks chattering, woodpeckers drumming, brooks (or creeks, depending on where you live) babbling.  I get to see, with appreciation, odd fungus formations, birds I've never seen before, and animal tracks like a bear track-- as big as my size 8 boot-- deeply impressed in fresh mud from the previous day's rain.  I usually don't get to see these things from home, either because they are not there or my responsibilities don't allow me the time.

this is the first hooded warbler I had ever seen

Daily tasks can become stressful.  When I'm hiking, I don't have to think about next week's menu, completing chores, planning or studying for a Bible lesson or paying bills and balancing the check-book.  I simply have to think about putting one foot in front of the other until I reach my destination.  I get to enjoy for as many moments or minutes as I want the blessings God puts before me.  A purple mushroom can be appreciated for five minutes, rather than five seconds.

There is something to be said for tackling a tough goal.  Carrying 35 extra pounds while gaining 500 feet in elevation over a one mile stretch can be exhausting.   However, once the day is over, I'm filled with a sense of accomplishment.

Of course, there are also the memories.  Reaching the summit of Mt. Katahdin with my then eleven year old son is one of my all time favorite experiences.  Reading through old journal entries and looking through pictures of my trips allow me to relive the experience.  An elderly man once told me to turn around from time to time to see where you have been.  For me, hiking and backpacking have been great tools for building character.  I am much more confident now.  Walking through the woods is like charging my "happiness battery."  

Dicky Gap to South Fork

I have hiked this section of the Appalachian Trail three times now.  There are some "ups and downs" but they are fairly gentle which provided for a good intermediate level workout.  Becky and I left Dicky Gap and started hiking north.  As seen below, the parking area has a rustic fence bordering a swarth.

Parking area at Dicky Gap near Troutdale

Along the trail, we saw several of these flowers (see picture below.)  Occasionally, one of the four pods would be yellow instead of purple.  We also saw several chipmunks.  

narrow-leaved gentian (Gentiana linearis)

After approximately two miles, we reached a trail-head leading to Raccoon Branch to the east.  As a side note, in most literature about the Appalachian Trail, east means to the right, if you are hiking north; not necessarily east by compass.  Less than a mile later we were hiking along a ridge known as High Point.  This is where I heard a squeak and saw it belonged to one of two chipmunks running along a fallen tree.  They reminded me of the cartoon chipmunks Chip and Dale.

really pretty slope with lots of visibility

From a previous trip.  Just as we started off High Point

Two miles later, we arrived at four-way intersection, if you will allow the term.  The AT makes a right angle turn to the left, continuing straight ahead leads to Slabtown, and a blue-blaze trail to the right leads to Trimpi Shelter.  Since Becky had never been to Trimpi, I wanted to show it to her.  This shelter is made of stone and has a fireplace.  We made the five minute walk down a sloping trail.  As I approached the shelter, I first noticed a backpack on the picnic table and then the hiker to whom it belonged.  Directly after exchanging greetings, he asked, "Are you staying the night?"  I halfheartedly stifled a giggle as I answered, "No."  He confessed that he found the place "spooky."

Trimpi Shelter

I went to the privy (a.k.a. outhouse, long-drop) while Becky chatted with our fellow hiker.  Another hiker came in seconds behind us.  He had taken a bus to Marion and was shuttled to Partnership Shelter where he started his hike south.

I was slightly concerned with our time because we got on the trail a little later than I thought we would.  I wondered if we would still be in the woods when darkness fell.  This last section of our hike flew by and we did, in fact, find our ride home in daylight hours.

a stile north of Trimpi Shelter

In the two point seven miles between Trimpi and our final destination, we crossed a stile, walked through a pasture (with cows, this time),  found a really nice set up of trail magic, crossed a gravel road, and arrived at our pick up point.

bridge over South Fork of Holston River

Because it is now hunting season, Becky and I decided to wear orange vests, just to be safe.  She lit up like a Christmas tree in the above photo.

We finished our seven mile hike in three hours and fifteen minutes; I am very pleased with our progress and feel confident we will be ready for our hundred mile trek next summer.

duration: 3 hours 15 minutes
mileage: 7
elevation changes: 3300 to 4040 to 2450

Dismal Falls

Today I went on one of the best hiking trips I have ever been on.  The trail-head was easy to find, the trail itself was easy, and there were great rewards: the beauty of the falls and its rock formations,  experiencing my first suspension bridge, and being in the woods on a perfect fall day.

Dismal Falls

 Although it was a short trip (about five miles), I got to see two things I had never seen before (Dismal Falls and this suspension bridge), which is one of the reasons I hike.  The tread was smooth with only a couple of rocky spots.  The corridor of this section of the AT led through a forest of hardwood trees.  Since they were mature, visibility was great--my favorite hiking environment.  The blue-blaze trail to Dismal Falls was quite thick with rhododendron--my least favorite hiking environment.

thick with rhododendron

Dale and I met only one other hiker on the trail today, a very pleasant man going by the trail name "More To Do."  He is hiking from Bland to Harper's Ferry and reported poor water supply thus far.  However, it's early in his trip, so maybe he'll have better sources the further north he goes.

God was merciful, once again, in that we had no encounters with snakes, bears, or crazy people.  We did see two white-tail deer and a caterpillar.

view of Kimberling Creek from suspension bridge

Let's Walk From Glade Spring to Saltville

Yesterday, Becky and I hiked the Salt Trail.  Because this is a "rail to trail" path, it is very flat.  We decided to attempt hiking the entire trail and return--a total of 16 miles.  Although we looked for mile-markers, we found none.  This left us guessing at our mileage.  Three hours and twenty minutes later, we were back at my vehicle.  Based on various pieces of input, I think we hiked 15 miles while carrying about 30 pounds each.

While there wasn't too much of notable interest, I did enjoy the rock pictured above.  There was also a wooden foot-bridge and a few sections of fencing re-purposed from railroad ties.

Shakedown Hike

In preparation for next summer's section hike, I have established a training program.  This program includes increasing strength and endurance.  My goal is to be able to hike 20 miles while carrying a fully loaded pack (35 pounds.) 

How will I accomplish this?  Hike, hike, hike, and hike some more.  Becky and I are hiking three times a week.  I am incorporating two types of hikes along with lifting free-weights.  Type one is hiking a shorter distance with a heavier pack, and type two is hiking a longer distance with a lighter pack.  Once I am able to hike 20 consecutive miles, I will add weight in four pound increments until I can carry 35 pounds for 20 AT miles. 

Becky and I have completed our first backpacking trip together!  We survived and still enjoy each other's company.  Mission accomplished.  Becky is a great hiking partner.  We hike at about the same pace, laugh at our learning curve, and encourage each other.

I was really happy with our pace on this trip.  I have hiked this section a few times before, carrying only a day pack.  Each time it took me 2 hours 15 minutes to hike 5.3 miles.  I carried a 34 pound pack for our weekend trip and we covered the same miles in 2 hours.  The training is paying off.  Having a compatible hiking partner makes the miles go by regardless of the pace.  When I hike with Dale, I get a little more time to look around and enjoy nature.  Hiking with Becky, I get to cover miles more quickly.

Once we arrived at Partnership Shelter, we ditched our packs and looked around.

We laid out our sleeping pads and bags in the loft, claiming our spots in case other hikers came in.
  

After supper chores (cooking, eating, cleaning), we looked for a spot to hang our bear-bags.  This turned into our entertainment for the evening.

We found a limb which would allow us to hang our bags 12 feet from the trunk and 12 feet off the ground.  While I practiced this technique the previous night, I ran into a couple of problems.  Thinking I had worked out all the kinks at home, I was not anticipating any snags on this trip.  I placed a fist-sized rock in one of my husband's socks (thank you for your contribution, honey), tied a rope around the sock neck and let it whirl.  Yes! On the first try the rope was carried over the limb.  I proceeded to tie one end of the rope to a carabiner and then free the sock from the other end.  As I was feeding the free end of the rope through the carabiner, Becky asked me a question about the mechanics of this particular method.

Eager to show her what I had learned, I demonstrated while giving a verbal explanation.  We watched the carabiner climb to the limb as I pulled the rope and spewed forth my new-found wisdom.  Suddenly, I felt like a complete idiot.  I had made the same mistake I had made at home.  Yes, that same kink I thought I had worked out.  The carabiner, the one that is supposed to hold the food bags, is now out of reach, not only of any bears hoping to yogi our food, but also of either of us!  It is out of reach and does not have any weight attached to bring it back to us.  I gave the rope a few shakes and jerks, hoping to loosen something, allowing gravity to hurl this much needed carabiner back into my hands.  No luck.  SIGH.

I said, "Well, then.", a phrase I picked up from my son.  Becky must have read defeat in my face because she then said, "Let's get a long stick and see if we can get it down."  Oh, we make a good team.

She poked at the elusive carabiner, and I pulled on the rope until I could reach the end of the limb.  Once I grabbed it, I was able to lower the branch enough for Becky to thread her stick through the carabiner and lower it.  YEAH.  She saved the day.

I then proceeded to show her the correct way to hang a bear bag.  Our food would be safe this night.

We gathered twigs and little sticks, in hopes of having a fire.  I even took the wrapper off the tp in the privy to use as a firestarter.  Becky had purchased Coleman camping matches, the waterproof kind.  They were basically useless. We could not get a fire going.  Things were damp and we did not have the right materials.  We'll get it next time.

Once darkness set in, we headed to the loft.  We chatted for a bit, and soon I heard Becky snoring.  Hearing this noise brought two conflicting thoughts:  "Good for her." and "How can she sleep?"  Shelters are notorious for being infested with mice.  Although it was very warm in the loft, I didn't dare put my arms out of or unzip my bag.  It's one thing to have a mouse crawl over you when you are covered, and another to have one crawl on your bare skin.  Since I was wearing long-john type pants, I soon became uncomfortably hot.  The pants had to go.  I rolled them up and added them to my bag of clothes I was using for a pillow.  After about 10 minutes this bag felt like a brick.  I tossed and turned all night resulting in very little sleep.  My fretting over mice was for nought.  We had no signs of them, other than some scat on the picnic table.  

In the morning, when we tried to retrieve our bags, we discovered that the rope had entangled with one of the bags' draw-cord, not allowing the bags to descend properly, or at all.  After all the trouble we had getting them up, now they did not want to come down.

Becky started searching for last night's stick.  She is such a trooper.  It's great to have a friend who will laugh at the situation and make fun out of it.  We repeated the steps of the previous night: Becky with the stick and me pulling on the rope until I could reach the branch.  While she was trying to thread the needle, the branch broke.  Luckily, I was able to maintain control of it while it fell to the ground.  Nobody got hurt and we would now be able to have breakfast.

We made coffee and oatmeal.  I shared a pop-tart with Lila, the cat.  Poor thing acted as if she were starving.  Then we cleaned, packed up, and headed home.

Lila, the resident cat.

Things I learned on this shakedown hike:

As a general rule, I will carry 2 liters of water, not 3.  It will save 2 pounds in weight.

I had taken fire starter sticks out of my pack because I didn't think we would need them and I was trying to save weight.  These sticks will now be an essential backpacking item.

The sleeping pad I have been using is too big and bulky for backpacking.  It's more for car-camping.  I will be purchasing a Thermarest NeoAir AND matching pillow.  The NeoAir packs down the the size of a Nalgene.  This will save space and weight.

My pocket-rocket doesn't have hooks to secure the pot, so it's rather tippy.  I'll be swapping it out for a Jetboil.

I found myself wanting a small towel to wipe my face, hands, and dishes.  That will have to be added to my pack.

Becky is such a good sport and an even better friend.

What's in my Backpack?

Here's a list of what is currently in my Gregory Deva 60 backpack--my thirty...six...pound...pack.  UGH!!  This is for one afternoon, one overnight, and one morning.  I don't know how I could fit much more into it but will have to for longer trips.  Although I realize adjustments will have to be made, at this point I don't know what those will be.  Since experience is the best teacher, one or more shakedown hikes will be very helpful.

mid-weight top and bottom
a cotton t-shirt for camp
a change of undergarments
one breakfast (whole grain oatmeal pop-tart, two pack)
one supper (rice side which I'll mix with a spicy tuna pouch)
five or six snacks (payday, crackers, prunes, mixed nuts)
three liters of water 
sleeping bag
sleeping pad
tent and poles
matches
dish soap and scrubby
toothpaste, brush and floss
toilet paper
rope and carabiner
pocket rocket and fuel
cooking pot
mess kit and spork
bags for trash
hat and mittens
rain jacket and pants
fleece jacket
camera
first aid (benadryl, ibuprofin, bandaids, mole skin, paper, pen, etc)
flashlight
whistle
pocket knife
compass
hand sanitizer
chap stick
Katidyn water filter
Bible
phone
pack cover

Personal Milestone

Years ago, when our son was only two years old, my husband and I took him camping in northern Maine.  Things I remember about that trip to South Branch Pond in Baxter State Park:

1. We had just finished a week of Vacation Bible School and Blaine repeatedly sang one of the songs.
2. That was the trip I taught Blaine how to look for and recognize a trail blaze.
3. How impressed I was to see a woman camping alone.  I thought then, and still today, that it takes a strong woman to camp by herself.

As the years rolled by, this impression remained in the back of my mind.  I often told various female friends that I would love to go on a canoe or camping trip with a group of hand-picked women.  To me, that would be empowering.

This past spring, a young friend of mine shared that she had never been tent camping.  I offered to take her.  We spent one night at a state park and had a great time, rain and all.  Admittedly, a couple of months went by before I realized what had happened: big changes had taken place, not only in the camping event, but also in me.  I had become that vision I had of a strong woman!  When did that happen?

Dreaming

For the past few years, I have been spending progressively more time on the trails.  I will hike anywhere and any time I can find someone willing to go along.  From time to time, I'll even venture out alone.  I would love to do a thru-hike.

Recently, a friend approached me and asked to "pick my brain" about hiking/backpacking.  As she explained that she and her son are planning a 100-mile section hike of the Appalachian Trail, my mind started whirling with jealousy.  It took great restraint on my part to not invite myself to join them.  As the conversation drifted to bears, she commented, "The more the merrier.  It will help scare the bears away." 

"Ahh," I thought, "maybe there is a chance I can tag along."

Becky and I met a few days later to discuss equipment and trails.  Then it happened.  She again mentioned "the more the merrier."  So, I put my toe in the water by asking, "Would you or Jared mind if I joined you, or is the a mother/son trip?"

She cheerfully replied, "Yes, come along.  Jared wouldn't mind at all."

I almost did a dance of joy right there in the restaurant.  I think I had a three-day grin.

We are now in training mode.  Because Jared has only five or six days to complete 100 miles, we will have to cover 15-20 miles per day.  With a full pack (around 35 pounds), this will be a challenge for me. Thankfully, we have plenty of time to prepare as this adventure is several months away.  A training plan has been established and we are having an incredibly fun time.

Our first hike was 15 miles from Shady Valley, TN to Damascus, VA.  We averaged 2.5 miles an hour and it felt great.

Big Ol' Bear

 Dale and I left my vehicle parked in Damascus and headed for the trail.  We hadn't hiked too far when I stopped in my tracks to allow my brain to comprehend the information flooding through my eyes.  Are those...how many are there...where do they lead...how fresh are they?  Once my brain caught up with my eyes, I confirmed, yes, those are BEAR tracks ON.  THE.  TRAIL.  "Dale, look at that."  Although I was hoping the tracks were yesterday's, Dale thought they were fresh.  So fresh, in fact, that we scared the bear off the trail just moments before.  As usual, Dale was calm and rather looking forward to spotting the beast that left this deep impression--literally and emotionally.  As we moved on, I continued to chat incessantly and knock my poles together occasionally in effort to encourage said beast to also move along, preferably away from us and the trail.  Soon after, two trail runners came up behind us.  They had seen the tracks, and were hoping, like Dale, to see this bear. 

     We continued on, stopping at a side trail leading to a spring.  Directly across the trail was a great camp site.  It invited us to stop for a snack break.  We obliged then continued on as south-bound day-hikers.  Upon reaching our destination, the Tennessee/Virginia state line, I took pictures of the signage, one of my hiking fetishes (the others are pictures of blazes and shelters).

After only a few minutes, we turned back toward Damascus.  Hiking north-bound, I saw something I had never seen before: an N scratched into a white blaze.

We completed our round trip hike in good time for this team: seven miles in about five hours, I think.